D talemmast n wagur n Mayyu, d ussan ineggura n tefsut. Ur nebni ara mi d-yusa ɣur-neɣ umdakkel-nneɣ Djilali yettidiren di tmurt n Fransa. Yuɣ lḥal yella-d yid-neɣ umeslay uqbel akken yibbas ad nerzu ɣer tmurt n Uheggar, akal n Imucaɣ yeččuṛen d lesrar akked lbaḍna n umezruy-nneɣ aqbuṛ. Mi nessawel i yimdukkal-nneɣ Imucaɣ seg wid i nessen, nnan-aɣ-d tallit yelhan i uḥewwes di temnaḍt-a d agur n Unbir d Dujember, acku tagnawt tezga teṣfa ulac tiḥemmalin i iregglen iberdan. Yerna di tallit-a i d-ttasen yiḥewwasen s waṭas am wakken daɣen i ttilint tfaskiwin am tfaska n Tezlit Tamaziɣt i yettmaggan yal agur n Dujember di temdint n Tamanrasset. Ɣas aya, nekni nɛewwel-d akken ad neg tirza-agi imi amdakkel-nneɣ ur iweɛɛa ara akken ad d-yuɣal ɣer tmurt deg umiwan
Abrid ɣer Tamanrasset
Ssaɛa d lxemsa n tṣebḥit mi nella di tmersit n Bgayet akken ad neṭṭef lkaṛ ara iṛuḥen qsada ɣer Tamanrasset. Segmi i d-nuɣ ibeyyiten i aɣ-d-yessawel win akken ixeddmen di lgici akken ad aɣ-d-irumbuṛsi idrimen-nneɣ, « Ur d-yettas ara ass-a lkaṛ ! », akka i aɣ-d-yenna. Lkaṛ yettawin seg Bgayet ɣer Tamanrasset ɣur-s azal n useggas aya kan segmi i yebda lxedma, acu kan yuɣal yetwassen aṭas ɣer yimsafren ladɣa inelmaden n tmiwa n unẓul yeqqaṛen di tesdawit n Bgayet , « Lɛebbasi-Tafsut » akka i d isem-is.Yid-s i d-nedda mi d-nuɣal seg tirza-nneɣ. Mi nwala ulac lkaṛ ara iṛuḥen seg Bgayet, neṭṭef abrid ɣer Sṭif, syin-a nufa lkaṛ ara iṛuḥen ɣer Tamanrasset.
Ssaɛa d tesɛa n tṣebḥit, mi nebda tikli-nneɣ ɣezzifen. Yekfa wass, nekni werɛad ur d-neffiɣ seg lweḍyat ɛlayen yeṭṭfen seg Temsilt armi d Leɣwaṭ. Ssaɛa ad tili imiren d 10 n yiḍ, mi nebda nekcem deg ṣṣeḥra. Tikli ɣezzifet, am win igezzmen deg yiɣes, yugi akk ad ifak ubrid. Aḥun Ṛebbi, yebbuḥra lḥal deg yiḍ-nni, wama lkaṛ ideg nedda ur tesɛi la aklimatizur la ṛṛadyu la kra. D imsafren i yettmeslayen way gar-asen i wakken ad ttun ɛeyyu n tikli.
Taɣerdayt : Udem n talwit yersen ɣef tergin n ccwal
Iɛedda yeḍ di tnaṣfa mi nekcem ɣer Tɣerdayt. Ayen d-ǧǧant tmesbaniyin akked yimenɣan yekkren ger yimezdaɣ mazal lǧeṛṛa-s tettban-d ula ɣef libɛid. Ɣas ma ur nris ara akken ad nemmeslay d yimdanen ɣef twaɣit-agi i d-yeɣlin fell-asen, nwala s tiṭ-nneɣ annect n thamaǧit i d-xellfen ccwalat. Ttbanen-aɣ-d yixamen d lebniyat i yerɣan. Iɣallen n laman ama d imsulta neɣ d iǧadarminen, zzin d aqusis ɣef leḥwami iɣef d-nɛedda i teɣzi n temdint, s lḥerǧ-nsen d ṭumubilat-nsen n uḥaṛeb mgal ccwalat. Liḥala akken tt-neǧǧa mi nṛuḥ i tt-id-nufa mi d-nuɣal. Tifrat yettbin-d dakken iḍul ubrid-is, imi ddula-nneɣ tugi ad tewwet azrem s aqeṛṛu akken ad testeɛref s wudem unṣib s usekkud tibaḍit ɣer yidis n tmalikit, neɣ ad wexren akk di tsertit n tmurt ayen icudden ɣer tesreḍt !
Tamanrasset: tamdint ideg yeddukel lḥif d sɛaya
Sin n wussan i nekka deg ubrid akken ad naweḍ ɣer Tamanrasset. Nebda tikli iḍelli-nni ɣef lxemsa n tṣebḥet, newweḍ deg wass wis sin ɣef leḥdac n uzal. 30 n swayeɛ d tikli, d awal kan i tent-id-yettadren ! Nedda-d seg Bgayet ɣer Tamanrasset 1555 n yikilumiṭren. Win ara ikecmen tamdint n Tamanrasset, ad yerr s ddehn-is ɣer tuget n lewsex d yiḍumma iɛummen di yal amkan. Ɣas ma lixṣaṣ n tezdeg yella di yakk timdinin n tmurt n Lezzayer, maca dagi izad, amzun akken srabes n tɣiwant yetkelfen s usizdeg ǧǧan maḍi lxedma-nsen. Ɣas aya, tamdint-a tjebbed-d imdanen ladɣa wid ixeddmen deg tanzut, i d-yettasen s lketra seg lwilayat n ugafa n tmurt am Sṭif, Bgayet d Tizi Wezzu. Tuget n Leqbayel i d-nemlal xeddmen di lkumiṛs ama d azenzi n yisufar n wučči neɣ rristuṛat akked leqhawi. Mi nwala akka, nesteqsa ɣef yimezdaɣ Imucaɣ i ulac s lketra deg temdint. Amdakkel-nneɣ Lɛid netta d amacaɣ seg temnaḍt n Hirafuk, yessefhem-aɣ-d dakken : “ Imucaɣ tuget deg-sen ur ɣrin ara akken ad xedmen di tedbelt, yerna ur sɛin ara ansay n usefti di tenzut akken ad xedmen tiḥuna neɣ leqhawi, ayen i yeǧǧan aṭas n yilmeẓyen ttemɛamalen d wid i d-yessekcamen sselɛa beṛṛa i lqanun seg tmura n Tefriqt am dexxan d wayen-nniden. Llan daɣen wid ixeddmen d icifuṛen imi ssnen mliḥ iberdan n Ṣṣeḥra”. Tamsalt-nniḍen i yewwin ddehn-nneɣ, d iminigen n tmura n Tefriqt yeqqimen d tijmuyaɛ deg yiberdan n temdint, akka i ttnadin win ara ten-yesxedmen. Tuget deg-sen d imeẓyanen ur wwiḍen ara 18 n yiseggasen, rewlen-d i lḥif d ṭṭṛad seg tmura-nsen akken ad ɛeṛḍen zzher-nsen di tmurt n Lezzayer wissen ahat ad tili d sseba akken ad zegren ɣer Luṛup ! Targit-a yuɛer ad teffeɣ, imi llan seg-sen ula wid ur umi tettunefk ara tegnit akken ad d-kcmen ɣer Tamanrasset imi aṭas seg-sen ttmettaten deg ubrid. Seg mi yekcem useggas n 2014 ar ass-a, azal n 140 n lǧettat n yiminigen-a i ufan yiɣallen n laman di Ṣṣeḥra. Ger sesebat n lmut-nsen, imi wid i ten-id-yewwin sersent-ten deg tlemmast n ubrid ɣer Tamanrasset war ma ẓṛan anda ara rren, armi i mmuten seg laẓ akked fad. Rnu ɣer waya ilemẓiyen-a ur sɛin ara zzher ɣer yimdanen n temdint, imi aṭas i ten-yessexdamen am wakken i ssexdamen zik aklan. Ttxellisen-ten s qel ssuma yerna ttaken-asen lexdami iweɛṛen. Ula d ilmeẓyen n tmurt yettnadin lxedma deg unẓul kerhen-ten imi “ ṣubben deg lqima n lxedma, nutni qebblen ad xedmen s qel ssuma, ayen i yeǧǧan imawlan n lexdami smenyafen ad ten-sxedmn nutni wala nekni”. am wakken i aɣ-d-yenna yiwen n yilemẓi i d-yusan seg Sṭif akken ad inadi ixeddim. Akrah n yilmeẓyen-a, nwala-t s wallen-nneɣ ula di lkaṛ ideg d-nedda. Mi akken i d-nuɣal, tuli-d ɣer lkaṛ yiwet n terbaɛt n yiminigen ifriqiyen ad ilin akken deg xemsa yid-sen. Nutni bɣan ad ɛeṛden zzher-nsen akken ad kecmen ɣer ugafa n tmurt. Ɣas ma xelsen ibeyyiten-nsen am nutni am wiyaḍ, win akken yettxellisen di lkaṛ yumeṛ-iten ad qqimen deg yimukan n deffir. Nɛedda nestqsa-t acimi i ten-yumeṛ akka, netta yekna-d s taḍsa ɣer umeẓẓuɣ-nneɣ yenna-d “ Ttfuḥun, ttdiṛunjin imsafren s yir rriḥa i d-yekkaten seg-sen!”. Mi t-id-nessefhem dakken aya ur ilaq ara acku d ṛrasizm, yuɣal yenna-d: “ Tella daɣen sseba-nniḍen, imi nutni d iminigen ur sɛin ara lekwaɣeḍ ayen i yeǧǧan iǧadaṛmiyen yellan deg yibaṛajen i teɣzi n ubrid mi ara ten-id-walin ḥebbsen-d lkaṛ , annect-a d ayen i aɣ-d-ixeddmen rruṭaṛ ama i nekni ama i yimsafren “.
a… Ageffur yergel abrid ɣer Ussekrem
Deg wass amezwaru ideg newweḍ ɣer Tamanrassat, nerra qsada ɣer lkumping n tmerrit neɣ n tmallayt am wakken i as-ssawalen di Lmeṛṛuk. Di temdint aṭas n wammasen usligen i yesteqbilen imerriyen ladɣa deg wagur n Dujember ideg d-ttasen s lketra seg tmura n beṛṛa. Nekni nerra ɣer ukumping yellan d ayla n yiwen n ucennay n tmacaɣt “Sakai», umi isemma : “Camping Assekrem”. Assekrem d lwelha n yal win yebɣan ad iḥewwes di Tamanrasset akken ad iwali cbaḥa ur nesɛi lmital n yiṭij mi ara yeɣli. Dinna ɣer Sakai nemlal akked Merẓuq, d yiwen n waggag n tmurt n Leqbayel, netta seg at Dwala iḥemmel seg zik tudert di Ṣṣeḥṛa ladɣa di tmurt n yimucaɣ. Tameddit n wass akk newwi-tt-id yid-s akked Sakai d yimdukkal-nniden, ameslay-nneɣ yezzi ɣef umezruy d wansayen n yimucaɣ. Merẓuq, yettmeslay akken ilaq tamacaɣt, ayen i t-yeǧǧan iɣuṣ di lesrar n tmetti-yagi. Iswi-is yebɣa ad yaru ayen akk i d-yelmed ɣef yimucaɣ d taktabt ideg ara setnefɛen yimdanen imi ɣef wakken i aɣ-d-yenna : “Ɣas ma irumyen uran aṭas n yidlisen ɣef yimucaɣ, maca ulac aṭas seg yimyura-ya i yessalqin anadi di tmetti tamacaɣt, nekk iswi-w ad d-sbineɣ ansayen i yellan ɣur-sen yerna ur twasnen ara”. Azekk-nni nessuter seg Sakai akken ad aɣ-d-ijabi amnir (nutni qqaren amanar) ara ɣ-yawin ɣer Assekrem i ibeɛden 80 n yikilumiṭren ɣef temdint. Netta ixebbeṛ-aɣ-d dakken ass-a yexṛeb lḥal, imi iteddu-d ugeffur ara ireglen iberdan “ ma tebɣam ad wen-d-qelbeɣ win ara ken-yesuffɣen ɣer yimeḍqan ur nebɛid ara ɣef temdint !” Segmi i nwufeq, yessawel-as i mmi-s n ɛemmi-s Qada i aɣ-yewwin ɣer yiwen n umkan isem-is Tisalatin ur nebɛid ara aṭas ɣef temdint. Ɣef wakken i aɣ-d-nnan yimdanen i nemlal, aḥric n tmerrit di Tamanrasset wid meṛṛa ixeddmen deg-s n teqbit n Yiheggaren, taqbilt yesɛan awal-is ladɣa zik-nni di tmetti tamacaɣt. Sakai, Qada nutni n teqbilt-agi i mazal teṭṭef amkan-is unnig di tmetti. Nedda ihi d Qada i yaɣ-yewwin s ṭumubil-is n ṣṣenf katkat, neṭṭef abrid ɣer Tisalatin. Qada, kra n umkan iɣer ara naweḍ, ad aɣ-d-yini isem-is. Yewwi-yaɣ armi d yiwen n umkan qqaren-as: “ Iɣzer n Tegmaɣt ” anda i d-nwala unuɣen n zik yersen ɣef yidɣaɣen (gravures rupestre) i yettuɣalen ɣer tallit n wazramezruy.
Tisalatin i yebɣan ad yini ɛlaḥsab n Qada : “ Tiswalin», d amkan ideg llant kra akken n tjuṛ yesɛan isennanen tetten deg-sent yileɣman. Tjuṛ-agi isem-nsent : “abseɣ” (acacia), d imɣi i yellan s watas di tama n Uheggar. Segmi i neswa attay (ttay) i yaɣ-d-isew Qada din di lexla, nuɣal-d ɣer ukumping n Sakai, qbel ad nemfaraq, yenna-yaɣ-d: “ Ma tesɛam azekka zzheṛ ulac asigna ad ken-awiɣ ɣer Ussekrem am wakken i tebɣam !”. Taswiɛt azekk-nni mazal akken tagnawt tɛelleq ɣas ma yella cwiṭ n yiṭij. Ur nettaki armi i aɣ-d-yessawel Qada di tilifun: “ Ma tebɣam ad ken-awiɣ ɣer Ussekrem nezmer ad nṛuḥ, acku walaɣ tlata n tkeryas n yiḥewwasen ibeṛṛaniyen i iɛeddan “. Ur t-neǧǧi ara ad yekfu ameslay-is armi i as-nenna aqlaɣ newjed. Nedda kra n lweqt, atan nemlal-d d yimerriyen-nni ibeṛṛaniyen i iɛeddan, skuṛtin-ten-id yiǧadaṛmiyen. Ɣef wakken i aɣ-d-yenna yiwen seg yimniren-nsen i yessen Qada : “ Iḥewwasen-a usan-d seg waṭas n tmura n Luṛup: Fransa, Ṭṭelyan d Rrus”. Ddan-d yid-sen yiǧadarmiyen, acku tagnit n laman simmal txeṛṛeb deg unẓul n tmurt ladɣa segmi i kkren ccwalat deg Ugafa n Mali akked tegrewla talibit; ayen i yeǧǧan tirebbaɛ timselḥin ad yennerni umḍan-nsent. Iḥewwasen iberraniyen amihi i zemren ad d-mmagren di temnaḍt-a, d axḍaf-nsen s ufus n terebbaɛ-agi timselḥin akken ad ten-sxedmen d taɣawsa i s ara niguṣyin lmaṣaleḥ-nsen akked yiduba n tmura n Luṛup. Dɣa d tagnit-a n laman i yesneqsen amḍan n yimerriyen deg unẓul n tmurt n Lezzayer. Deg ubrid-nneɣ, nɛedda ɣef tudrin anda mazal imezdaɣ ttidiren am zik, melmi aya kan isen-wwin trisiti, ttbinen d ijdiden yipuṭuyen i d-nemlal deg ubrid. I yessewhamen, d tibḥirin-nni zegzawen i d-yettbanen seg ubrid di tlemmast n Ṣṣeḥra n uẓru aberkan. Mi neffel akkin ɣer zdat, tban-aɣ-d yiwet n tiɣilt yesɛan talɣa n uḍad, dɣa d isem-is i d awal-is, mi nesteqsa Qada, yenna-d qqaren-as: “Adaḍ», yesmektayaɣ-d din din ɣef tiɣilt-nni umi qqaṛen “Taleṭṭaḍt” di tmurt n Leqbayel. Nkemmel aluy-nneɣ deg ubrid yettawin ɣer Ussekrem armi i nwweḍ ɣer lweḍyat umi qqaṛen : “ Akar Akar», d iṭeḥṭaḥen kan akken n lqaɛa yessan s ugric d aberkan. Ad twehmeḍ amek i ttidiren da yiɣersiwen. Dɣa mi akken i d-nuɣal tban-aɣ-d tzerzert (teɣzalt) deg ubrid-nneɣ. Ula d Qada yewhem, imi yenna-d deg umkan-a ur ttezzin ara s waṭas yiɣersiwen. Tesɛa zzher teɣzalt-agi imi i nekni umi d-tesban iman-is, wama limer d igeldunen-nni n Lxaliǧ i d-iɛeddan, ur ḥsiɣ ara ad tt-ǧǧen ad tṛuḥ salamat, walukan ahat ad ilin skuṛtin-ten-id yiǧadaṛmiyen! Mi aɣ-d-mazal 20 n yikilumiṭren akken ad naweḍ ɣer Assekrem, nḥus i usemmiḍ rnu daɣen lehwa tebda asbixew. Deg umkan-a i yeɛlayen ɣef uswir n yillel 2800 n lmitrat, ṭul n useggas yebbuḥra lḥal. D ayen i yeǧǧan ahat aserda afransis yuɣalen di taggara d apappaṣ n teṣreḍt tamasiḥit Charles de Foucauld akken ad yebnu deg-s timezgida-s i mazal ɛemren-tt ar wass-a yipappasen ikatulikiyen. Di leɛwayed n yimerriyen, qbel ad awḍen ɣer Ussekrem, ḥebbsen deg umkan umi sawalen : “ Afilal», akken ad walin timedwa n yiselman di tlemmast n Ṣṣeḥra yeččuren d iẓra iberkanen. Ula d nekni neḥbes din, acu kan tagnawt ur aɣ-tefki ara tagnit akken ad nwali timedwa-ya n yiselman. Imi di teswiɛt kan yusa-d uḥemmal yeṛmel akk timedwa yellan deg yiɣẓer i d-yusan seg tqacuct n Ussekrem. Cwiṭ akka leḥqen-d yimerriyen-nni ibeṛṛaniyen i neǧǧa zdeffir-nneɣ, acu kan mi walan akken tiḥemmalin uɣalen neɣ mulac kra i ten-yettaɣen. Amnir-nneɣ Qada, yesɛa nnmara, yewwet akk s wayen umi yezmer akken ad aɣ-ikemmel abrid ɣer Ussekrem ur nebɛid ara aṭas ɣef Afilal. Maca ageffur yugi ad yeḥbes, aḥemmal yettnernay, abrid iluḍ s wakal i d-ifessin seg yidɣaɣen. Ɣer taggara, iban-aɣ-d ulamek ara nkemmel tikli, ula d tuɣalin tuɛer, imi abrid ittecceḍ, yeččur d tinexxarin. Aḥun Ṛebbi kan Qada yuɣ tannumi d tegnatin yecban tigi. Ɣas ma ur nessaweḍ ara ad nwali aɣelluy n yiṭij icebḥen, daɣen ur nesɛedda ara iḍ deg tqacuct n Ussekrem am wakken i nenwa maca nsɛedda ass igerrzen. Aya imi yal amkan iɣer nmuqel i teɣzi n ubrid amzun akken nwala kra n tfelwit n tẓuri i d-igellun s uḥulfu n tuɣalin ɣer yizri, ɣer tazwara. S umata adrar n Uheggar s yiɣallen-is iberkanen, d amkan ideg tɛum tsusmi, d yiwet n txelwit wessiɛen war tilisa. Segmi i nensa iḍ-nneɣ aneggaru deg ukumping n Sakai, azekk-nni ṣbeḥ nekker-d akken ad nawi abrid n tuɣalin ɣas ma ur neṛwi ara seg tteḥwas. Neǧǧa akken lesrar n Uheggar mazal ur ten-nessin, ula d wid nufa din ur aɣ-ṛwin. Neǧǧa slam i Sakai, d Malik netta d yiwen n yilemẓi akamruni i d-yesserwel laẓ, ixeddem di lkumping-nni di leɛḍil ad d-iḥelli amṣruf i yes-s ara d-yali ɣer ugafa wissen ahat ad yaf tawwurt ɣer Luṛup. Neǧǧa Merẓuq, i yaɣ-yefkan ttiɛad ad nemlil di tmurt n Leqbayel i wakken ad aɣ-d-yemmeslay ugar ɣef usentel yezgan deg yimi-s “ timetti n yimucaɣ”. Neǧǧa daɣen Lɛid amdakkel-nneɣ i aɣ-d-yestqeblen deg wass amezwaru ideg newweḍ ɣer Tamanrasset, yeqqim akk id-neɣ armi i tekfa tirza ɣas ma ula d netta d axeddam ur yelli ara deg teswiɛt n usteɛfu. Llan yimdukkal ur neẓri ara am Muḥemmed akked Yeḥya, imi yebɛed wanda llan ɣef temdint n Tamanrasset. Acu kan mazal taswiɛin yelhan, ideg ara nuɣal ahat ad aɣ-tettunefk tegnit ad nwali iṭij mi ara yeɣli deg Assekrem. Ma d wid yettmennin ad ḥewsen ɣer Ussekrem, ad ten-nweṣṣi ur xeddmen ara am nekni ! I uḥewwes di Ṣṣeḥṛa ulac i yecban tasemhut n umiwan ladɣa agur n Dujember ideg teṣfa tegnawt yerna ulac ageffur akked yiḥemmalen.
S-ɣur Mokrane Chikhi